fixing the bow of a mirror dinghy

inside bow locker finished

As promised some more pictures of the bow locker repairs. please note that the runs in this picture are from the origonal work not mine!! You can see the stringer that will support the fore deck and into which I will screw fix the deck. I gave the stringer a liberal coat of west system resin before fitting the deck to act as a glue.

underside of bow deck

the supports under the fore decks  were the originals re used

fore deck fitted prior to fixing

I fixed the deck with stainless steel screws aw 150mm centres to the stringer . These screws will be hidden with the fibreglass tape.

 

fixing a mirror dinghy

I used some oak that I had in the shed to make a new section of gunwhale for the bow. This is now glued into place with West system resin.

New gunwale detail

When the resin went off I drilled and screw fixed the gunwales for additional strength

screwing the gunwales

Be careful when buying brass screws, these are scarce now and most of the screws that you see in the hardware stores are yellow metal and will corrode in salt water. I went to a chandler to get proper brass screws, and I never throw out brass fittings or screws!.

 

fixing a hole in a mirror dinghy

This boat, like many other mirror dinghy’s, had obviously spent a period of its life left deck up & exposed to the weather. There is  a tide mark inside the lockers. Given that this boat is never to be a racing mirror I have decided to line the damages part of the bow lockers with a layer of chopped strand mat and resin. I sanded the lockers where they were to be glassed ensuring that there was no flaky paint. I then used a vacuum cleaner to remove all of the dust and cleaned the area with acetone (cellulose thinners will work as well).I cut a piece of the chopped strand mat to the required shape. I then mixed west system resin and hardener and painted the area to be treated with a generous coat of the resin. Next I placed the pre-cut mat into position and worked the resin through it with a brush, that I had shortened to give stiffer bristles, to work in the mat I dabbed the brush rather than using a brush type stroke. I have repeated this process in the two open lockers , both of which had some cracking. The result is excellent, very stiff and strong.

Bow lockers pre treatment (cracks visible near the centre vertical line)

Bow buoyancy locker sanded and ready for glassing

choppes strand in place , the next step is to dab the mat until the resin is absorbed.

once the mat has absorbed the resin remove any excess resin. the result is a very strong repair. the rest of the lockers will now be sanded out in preperation for painting.